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Gozen Iwa is an intermediate-to-hard limestone sport destination in Okutama, where entry qualifications come before the route list. This guide helps you decide whether it suits your team, when to visit and what to confirm about transport and the approach.
What kind of crag
Gozen Iwa is an intermediate-to-hard limestone sport destination in Okutama, where entry qualifications come before the route list.
Mountain Project distinguishes Dragon and Elephant Rock, with short and longer sport lines. The committee’s entry rules apply before choosing either sector.
When to go
Mountain Project describes good sun exposure. Start with autumn, spring or milder winter days; summer heat changes the plan. Dragon and Elephant receive different sun, so valley temperature alone is insufficient. Check seepage and rockfall after rain.
Getting there
Public transport
Take the JR Ome Line to Okutama, then a Nishi Tokyo Bus toward Nippara to Osawa. Check that day’s timetable and last bus. Register at the climbing centre before entering the crag.
Driving
Drive along Nippara-kaido to the Okutama Climbing Centre at Osawa. Set the centre as your initial destination and follow the current approach rather than improvising river shortcuts.
Parking
The centre’s rules require designated parking and registration and prohibit sleeping in vehicles. Payment mechanics differ between its page and newer reports: follow current centre instructions. Do not park on the road. To use Tokyo Trout Country’s parking or spaces around the tourist toilet, first complete the procedure at its reception.
Rules before you go
The Okutama Climbing Committee requires reliable outdoor leading at 5.11 or above and adequate climbing/safety skills; belayers and observers generally face the same condition. Register every first-time person, log each entry and departure, and pay the contribution.
Night entry, unauthorized guiding, new routes/bolts and unfinished projects are prohibited. Loose rock affects the ground as well: do not roll stones down slopes or remove fixed descent equipment.
For a serious injury requiring medical help, call 119. The FDMA guide asks callers to give the location and landmarks. Save the local crag name, target sector and road access offline; ask your insurer whether the climbing style, search and rescue, treatment and repatriation are covered.
Routes by level
YDS and V-grade conversions follow the Mountain Project international grade comparison chart and are approximate; "approx." marks grades the sources give without a/b/c (such as 4 or 5+). The original grade is the one that counts.
The full graded ROCKTOPO table contributes 55 entries, supplemented by the linked public topo/MP rows. Original YDS or Japanese grades are retained; unlisted lengths/pitches remain unspecified. Obtain the current topo for descent and protection. Names shared by different sectors/grades remain separate. A listed route is not a current-access recommendation.
Beginner: up to 6a (YDS 5.10a and below)
Check protection style and the start even on lower grades; a low number does not make a first outdoor lead appropriate.
No graded routes were listed in the readable inventory for this band; that is not a claim about every route in the guidebook.
Intermediate: 6a+ to 6c+ (YDS 5.10b–5.11c)
Distinguish face, crack and multipitch routes within this range. Choose a sector cluster and check the day’s rock conditions.
| Route | Grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Sector | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 「ドラゴンホール」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | ドラゴンロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO、MP / topo。 Face route。 Other source grade: 5.10d。 |
| 「キープフォレスト」 | 5.10d | 5.10d | Not listed | ドラゴンロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO、MP / topo。 Face route。 Other source grade: 5.10d。 |
| 「ジャガークロス」 | 5.11b/c | 5.11b/c | Not listed | ドラゴンロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO、MP / topo。 Face route。 Other source grade: 5.11b。 |
| 「スタンガン」 | 5.11b/c | 5.11b/c | Not listed | ドラゴンロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「ミートテック」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO、MP / topo。 Face route。 Other source grade: 5.10c。 |
| 「男女冬物語」 | 5.10d | 5.10d | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「息子の名は友希」 | 5.10d | 5.10d | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「ハートブレイク」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO、MP / topo、Record。 Face route。 Other source grade: 5.11b。 Online record: report, A 2023 visit gives6b+ and28m, differing from ROCKTOPO/MP YDS entries; check the topo version. |
| 「蕎麦太郎」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「もえぎ」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「バイオニックソルジャー亀」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「ハーケンクロイツ」 | 5.11b/c | 5.11b/c | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「カロリーメイト」 | 5.11b/c | 5.11b/c | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「デカンテ」 | 5.11b/c | 5.11b/c | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「なめなめくじ」 | 5.11b/c | 5.11b/c | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「わがままボディ」 | 5.11c | 5.11c | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO、MP / topo。 Face route。 Other source grade: 5.11d。 |
Advanced: 7a to 7c+ (YDS 5.11d–5.13a)
Near your limit, establish descent, cleaning and retreat options first. A trip report describes its author’s visit.
| Route | Grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Sector | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 「蒙古タンメン」 | 5.12a | 5.12a | Not listed | ドラゴンロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO、Source。 Face route。 A 2023 report lists7a+ and three stars, a project candidate in this range. |
| 「Fragile」 | 5.12c | 5.12c | Not listed | ドラゴンロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「見返り美人」 | 5.12c | 5.12c | Not listed | ドラゴンロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「アレジオン」 | 5.12c | 5.12c | Not listed | ドラゴンロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「Bad or Not too Bad」 | 5.12c | 5.12c | Not listed | ドラゴンロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「キルフィンガー」 | 5.12d | 5.12d | Not listed | ドラゴンロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「グレイハウンド」 | 5.12d | 5.12d | Not listed | ドラゴンロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「Seven Stitch on Pinky」 | 5.12d | 5.12d | Not listed | キャッスルロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「いかづち」 | 5.13a | 5.13a | Not listed | キャッスルロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「ハルドラ」 | 5.11d | 5.11d | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO、Source。 Face route。 A public ascent report calls it popular and describes juggier lower climbing followed by endurance and a long move. |
| 「奥多摩は魔女」 | 5.11d | 5.11d | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「WASABI」 | 5.12a | 5.12a | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「お尚」 | 5.12a | 5.12a | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「大爆笑ルート」 | 5.12a | 5.12a | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「APA」 | 5.12a/b | 5.12a/b | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO、MP / topo。 Face route。 Other source grade: 5.12b。 |
| 「ムーブマニア」 | 5.12b | 5.12b | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「ビッグウェンズデー」 | 5.12b | 5.12b | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「Cerveza（セルベッサ）」 | 5.12c | 5.12c | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「ぬかよろこび」 | 5.12d | 5.12d | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「Vertere」 | 5.12d | 5.12d | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「アスリーツボディ」 | 5.13a | 5.13a | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「89番目の星座」 | 5.13a | 5.13a | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「ベルリンの壁」 | 5.13a | 5.13a | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「鬼なめこ」 | 5.13a | 5.13a | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「DAIJA」 | 5.13a | 5.13a | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
Expert: 8a and up (YDS 5.13b and up)
Allow separate project time for harder lines. A database entry does not certify a finished route or inspected protection.
| Route | Grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Sector | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 「Maturity」 | 5.15a | 5.15a | Not listed | ドラゴンロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「メルシーヨンキュー」 | 5.13b | 5.13b | Not listed | キャッスルロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「Dr.メイジ（Regime du Docteur Meiji）」 | 5.13b | 5.13b | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「GYA-GYA」 | 5.13b | 5.13b | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「岩近岩」 | 5.13b | 5.13b | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「WENDE」 | 5.13c | 5.13c | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「神社」 | 5.13c | 5.13c | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「誉」 | 5.13c | 5.13c | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「One Voice One Team」 | 5.13c | 5.13c | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「番長」 | 5.13d | 5.13d | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「ドップラー効果」 | 5.13d | 5.13d | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「パチンコゲーム」 | 5.14a | 5.14a | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「Time Machine」 | 5.14c | 5.14c | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「Soul Mate」 | 5.15b | 5.15b | Not listed | エレファントロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
Where to look things up
- ROCKTOPO: Japanese names, sectors and original grades.
- Okutama Climbing Centre: Requires reliable outdoor 5.11 leading, registration and visit logs; no night entry, unauthorized guiding or new bolts.
- JFA access history: Gozen reopened in 2017 after local committee/community negotiations.
- Nishi Tokyo Bus: Official route timetable portal.
- Mountain Project: Limestone sport crag with Dragon and Elephant sectors and sun exposure.
Guidebooks: Grades and route counts here come mainly from online databases; the guidebook is the authority.
- Free Climbing Japan 100 Crags, volume 2: Makoto Kitayama, Yama-kei, 2019 expanded revised edition, Kanto, adding Gozen Iwa routes, Japanese. The publisher listing establishes edition and regional coverage. The paid interior topo was not accessed; older rules do not supersede current notices.
References
- ROCKTOPO: Gozen Iwa
- ROCKTOPO: route inventory
- Yama-kei: guidebook
- Okutama Climbing Centre
- JFA access history
- Nishi Tokyo Bus
- Mountain Project
- Public route inventory
- Climbing record / local recommendation
- Public route inventory
- Climbing record / local recommendation
- FDMA: ambulance services
- Mountain Project: international climbing grades