Jogasaki: Seaside Andesite Cracks and Sport Lines on the Izu Coast, a Winter Crag | Japan Climbing Crags

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Jogasaki is a lava sea cliff that runs for more than ten kilometres along the east coast of Izu. Most of the climbing is crack climbing on your own gear, with sport routes and bouldering as well. The cliffs sit inside a national park, right next to tourist paths, suspension bridges and private land. In some sectors you rappel down to the shore and climb back up an exit route at the end of the day.

This guide helps you decide whether Jogasaki suits your grade, which months to go, which station to walk from without a car, where to park, which rules could get the whole crag closed if broken, and which sector to start in at each of the four grade bands.

What kind of crag is this

Jogasaki (城ヶ崎) is in Ito, Shizuoka Prefecture, on the east coast of the Izu Peninsula. The Ito Tourism Association describes the coast as formed by lava that flowed out when Mt. Omuro erupted about 4,000 years ago (「約4000年前、大室山が噴火した時に流れ出した溶岩によってできた」). From Tokyo it is about two hours by car from the Atsugi interchange on the Tomei Expressway.

Sources disagree on the rock. ROCKTOPO and CLIMBING-net both say andesite (安山岩). theCrag tags it "Andesite Basalt" and describes it as "Dark grey basalt, sports and trad climbing."

CLIMBING-net's overview explains the crag's character. Development only began in 1981, and from the start it was treated as a free-climbing venue (「初めからフリークライミングの岩場として扱われた」). Along more than ten kilometres of cliff, every corner in the columnar jointing hid a crack, and early climbers climbed them one after another. After JAO held the Seaside Cup in 1987, face routes followed, and the Seaside sector became the most popular area. CLIMBING-net gives the angle as 90 to 110 degrees.

Route counts vary a lot by site (all checked 2026-10-12):

Source	Count	Breakdown
ROCKTOPO	494	128 boulders, 105 sport (face leads), 255 crack leads, 6 multi-pitch
CLIMBING-net	about 500	「ルート数 約500本」
theCrag	180	"180 routes in crag"
Mountain Project	44	"44 Total Climbs"
Jogasaki Boulder Guide	170 boulder problems	「7 エリア 79 岩 170 課題」

ROCKTOPO's grade chart shows the cracks lean easy to moderate. Of 255 cracks, 76 are 5.2–5.9, 94 are 5.10, 44 are 5.11, 30 are 5.12, 10 are 5.13 and 1 is 5.14. The 105 sport routes cluster at 5.10–5.12, with 5.11 the largest band (36 routes). Among the 128 boulders, 29 are around 1-dan (shodan), 14 around 2-dan and 5 are 3-dan or harder.

CLIMBING-net marks the crag as suitable for beginners and intermediates, but the same page warns that outside Seaside you should assume no maintenance since first ascent (「開拓後の整備はいっさいされていないと思ったほうがよい」). You place your own gear, judge fixed gear yourself, and some routes have no lower-off. Outside Seaside, Family and Kadowaki-minami-no-iso, nuts and cams are the default. In practice, "beginner-friendly" here means climbers who can place trad gear, or who go with someone who can. CLIMBING-net also asks that pairs of beginners not descend into Seaside at all (「初心者、初級者同士の方はシーサイドには降りないようにお願いしたい」).

When to go

Source	Months	Reason
ROCKTOPO	December–April	「シーズン 1月 2月 3月 4月 12月」
CLIMBING-net	November–May	「シーズン 11月~5月」
theCrag	Colder months	Dark rock facing mostly S, SE or SW: "the colder months of the year are preferred"

The two Japanese sites disagree on the edges; both include December through April, and only CLIMBING-net adds November and May. theCrag's reasoning is that the rock is dark and mostly south-facing, so cold months are better. None of the three sources goes further than that on why summer is bad, and no temperature, humidity or sea-state figures turned up.

Two more seasonal hazards:

• Fixed gear at the start of the season. CLIMBING-net: because of the sea, all fixed gear degrades much faster than at other crags, so take extra care especially at the start of the season (「とくにシーズン始めは注意されたい」).
• After typhoons. The Jogasaki Boulder Guide says typhoons and waves can move boulders or wipe out problems (「台風や波の影響で岩が動いたり課題が消滅したりすることがあります」). ROCKTOPO's Kosaitsuna boulder entry also notes some problems have disappeared because the shore got rough.

Peak season also means crowds. Mountain Project warns that the exit route can jam when everyone tries to leave at once, and suggests bringing headlamps.

Trip reports suggest midwinter is the easier time. Kii Sampo climbed at Seaside two days before the coldest week of the year and wrote that the south-facing wall gets little north wind (「南向きのシーサイドはあまり北風も入らない」); the worry was that it was too warm for good friction. nicecats went to Funamushi Rock during a once-in-a-decade cold wave and found the rock not that cold (「岩はそれほど冷たくなく」). On the other hand, Kojitsu Sanso staff found the rock greasy once the midday sun hit it, and Shuho Toko-kai wrote that by early April Colossus was too slick to try (「ヌメヌメで勝負にならなかった」). For hard routes, go from December to February and climb the sunny walls in the morning.

Getting there

	By train	By car
Start	Izukyu Futo, Jogasaki-Kaigan or Izu-Kogen station, depending on the sector	About 2 hours from Atsugi IC on the Tomei Expressway, then Route 135
Parking	—	Small lots by sector, mostly paid; no roadside parking anywhere
To the rock	Boulder areas, Funamushi, Isaribi and others: 15–30 min on foot	5–30 min from the lot, by sector
Watch out for	Seaside needs a rappel in and a climb out	Weekend and holiday traffic; the Funamushi lots fill up in the morning

By train

CLIMBING-net says most sectors are walkable from one of three Izukyu stations: Futo, Jogasaki-Kaigan or Izu-Kogen. Which one depends on the sector. The Jogasaki Boulder Guide gives walking times on each sector page:

Sector	Nearest station	Walk	Source
Funamushi Rock	Izukyu Futo	about 15 min	Funamushi Rock
Isaribi	Izukyu Futo	about 15 min	Isaribi
Hashidate	Izukyu Jogasaki-Kaigan	about 20 min	Hashidate
Kosaitsuna	Izukyu Jogasaki-Kaigan	about 20 min	Kosaitsuna
Nichirenzaki	Izukyu Jogasaki-Kaigan	about 30 min	Nichirenzaki
Tanakaiso	Izukyu Izu-Kogen	about 20 min	Tanakaiso

For the Kadowaki suspension bridge tourist area, the Ito Tourism Association gives about 35 minutes on foot from Jogasaki-Kaigan station. ROCKTOPO lists the main roped sectors (Seaside, Family Crack and others) under the "parking near Izu-Kogen station" entry but gives no walking time from the station. Two blog posts from 2023 and 2026 (H.Tohsaki, Sugiyann) put the walk from the paid lot at Yawatano to the Seaside rappel point at about 10–15 minutes.

By car

• Interchanges. From Tokyo, about 2 hours from the Atsugi interchange on the Tomei Expressway; from Aichi, about 1 hour 30 minutes from the Nagaizumi-Numazu interchange (Ito Tourism Association, Jogasaki Boulder Guide). Then head south on Route 135 along the east coast.
• Traffic. CLIMBING-net warns this is a major tourist area and weekend traffic to and from Tokyo can be heavy (「休日の東京方面からの行き帰りの渋滞は、十分に覚悟していただきたい」).
• Roadside parking. Every Jogasaki Boulder Guide sector page says never park on the road, and that locals may report you. Mountain Project: "illegal parking and roadside parking is strictly prohibited," and no overnight parking is currently allowed.

Parking

ROCKTOPO lists ten parking spots; all capacities are approximate:

Parking	Spaces	Fees and notes	Sectors
Kadowaki	ROCKTOPO about 30; Ito Tourism Association says 123 cars	Paid; per the Ito Tourism Association, free for 15 minutes, then ¥500 per day	Kadowaki-zaki / Big Terrace, Kadowaki-minami-no-iso, Mozugane, etc.
Near Izu-Kogen station	about 20	Paid; "pay the house next door" (「駐車料金は隣接する民家に払う」)	Seaside, Family Crack, Akane-no-hama, Hashidate boulders, etc.
Igaigane	about 10	Fee not stated on ROCKTOPO	Ocean, Nagane, Tanakaiso boulders, etc.
Ukiyamabashi	about 5	Paid via a post box; CLIMBING-net says ¥300 per day and no sleeping in cars (it is inside a holiday-home estate)	Ukiyamabashi, Astrodome
Yawatano port	about 5	CLIMBING-net: the paid lot at the top of the slope is ¥1,000 per day; never park on the slope before it	Chiiside Rock, Yawatano-ko north shore
Near Renchakuji temple	about 5	See the conflict note below	Nichirenzaki boulders, Nichirenzaki south face
In front of Isaribi Rock	about 3	Paid, reservation required (「要事前予約」)	Isaribi Rock, Kamenote, Jackson boulders, etc.
Funamushi Rock	about 5	At the end of the road; don't use the road shoulders, carpool	Funamushi Rock
Izu Umi-no-Mori Smile Campground	about 3	¥1,000 from morning until 16:00; car camping ¥3,800, booking required; 24-hour toilets and paid showers	Funamushi Rock (3 min walk)
Akazawa port	not listed	Marked as a provisional entry (「仮登録」)	Akazawa port

Sources conflict on parking in three places, so double-check before you go:

• Kadowaki capacity. ROCKTOPO says about 30 cars; the Ito Tourism Association says 123 cars plus 3 microbuses. They may be counting different things; the sources don't say.
• Where to park for Nichirenzaki. ROCKTOPO lists a lot near Renchakuji, but the Jogasaki Boulder Guide Nichirenzaki page says the Renchakuji lot is not available (「蓮着寺駐車場は利用不可です」) and suggests the paid Izu Kaiyo Koen lot instead (¥550 per day, 8:00–17:00, locked outside those hours; the page dates this to February 2022).
• Around Hashidate. CLIMBING-net says the free Hashidate lot fills with climbers' cars on weekends, which annoys locals, so use a paid lot (¥500) on weekends. The Jogasaki Boulder Guide says the Hashidate tourist parking is not to be used (「橋立観光駐車場は不可です」).

Rules to know before you go

None of the sources checked for this post mentions registration or an access fee. But this is a crag that sits right next to a climbing ban (「登攀禁止と隣り合わせ」). The JFA access-issue list flags "Izu / Jogasaki coast" as "use with care, follow the rules." After accidents on consecutive days in February 2009, the prefecture, city, police and fire service inspected the site in April. Climbing has continued only after JFA negotiated with the authorities, and JFA asks climbers to follow each sector's rules (「各エリアの利用ルールを遵守してほしい」).

CLIMBING-net adds what concerned officials: the run of accidents, and bolts and slings left inside a national park. The coast is also both a national park and private land (「国立公園であると同時に私有地でもある」). CLIMBING-net notes it is still not an officially approved area (「今なお公に認められたエリアではなく」).

Ito City's tourism division, which manages the Jogasaki coast, contacted JFA in April 2022 (JFA notice, 2022-04-15) after a climbing death that month at Yoshida Beach in Minami-Izu. The city made three points. More people are asking it about safety. Jogasaki is not a climbing area the city officially sanctions, so the city will not put up signs or make announcements itself. The city knows people climb there and is not considering a ban, but would have to if accidents became frequent (「事故が頻発するようであれば検討せざるを得ない」). In other words, whether climbing continues here depends on the accident record.

Recent JFA notices for Jogasaki:

• Camping: on 2025-03-29 JFA reported someone tent-camping in a Jogasaki car park. It reminded climbers that tent camping is banned in Izu outside designated sites (「伊豆では、テント泊は指定地区以外は禁止」), and that copycats could get car parks or the crag closed.
• Bolts: JFA's rebolting record has only two Jogasaki entries, both from December 2007, listed under 「ファミリークラック・エリア（日蓮崎南面）」: Eve and Indian Doll (インデェアンドール), refitted with ring hangers (FIXEリング付きハンガー). JFA has posted no rebolting or closure notice for Jogasaki since 2023.

Mountain Project lists the rules:

• No new bolts anywhere on the Jogasaki coast without permission from JFA and the national park, and the same for rebolting or retro-bolting. Don't develop new routes.
• Leave no fixed ropes, gear or tat. All fixed ropes have been removed and none are allowed.
• In some sectors, getting out means climbing a 5.7 exit route.
• No dogs. No camping (CLIMBING-net also says camping is banned along the whole coast, 「海岸一帯はキャンプ禁止」). No cutting trees or lighting fires. Pack out all rubbish.
• Use a toilet before you lower in; there are none below. The Jogasaki Boulder Guide also says there are no toilets near the boulders, so use the ones at the parking lots or a convenience store.
• Weekends bring crowds of tourists; keep a low profile and keep the noise down.

Mountain Project's Family Crack Area page adds that tourists cross the suspension bridge above, and "any violations of local ethics or disruptive behavior could easily result in a ban on climbing." Hiking trails run above the crag and rockfall is frequent, so wear a helmet.

Seaside hazards. The Jogasaki cliffs sit within reach of the waves, and these points decide what you carry and when you leave:

• Corroded bolts and anchors. CLIMBING-net says never trust everything to a single bolt (「ボルト1本にすべてを託すようなことは絶対にしないこと」). Outside Seaside, bolts and fixed pitons are almost untrustworthy (「ほとんど信用できない」), and even Seaside has some original bolts. theCrag notes the gear is "very exposed to the salt of the sea." A Kojitsu Sanso report from March 2014 includes a photo of an anchor carabiner destroyed by salt and suggests carrying spares.
• Rappelling in and climbing out. Seaside is reached by rappel (ROCKTOPO has a Seaside rappel point), and theCrag warns some sectors need a rappel down to the beach. CLIMBING-net says falls happen almost every year on the climb back out of Seaside (「特にシーサイドの登り返しでは、毎年のように墜落が起きている」). The way out follows bolts and metal staples, moving a self-belay up as you go. kubo (January 2025) warns that the tree used for the self-belay at the rappel point is dead and rotten (「既に枯れており、かなり腐っていた」), and genter (February 2026) found the entrance looser than the year before (「去年よりザレていて」). If you cannot rappel, you cannot get in; this is not a place to learn on the way down.
• Waves and falling into the sea. The Jogasaki Boulder Guide asks climbers to take great care not to fall into the sea (「海への転落に十分な注意をお願いします」). CLIMBING-net selected sectors where the base is on the rocky shore rather than over the water, which means some sectors do start above the sea. For tides, use the Japan Meteorological Agency tide table for Ito: the station is in Futo, the same village as Funamushi Rock and Isaribi. The table is a prediction of astronomical tide, so it does not show big waves from typhoons or low-pressure systems. Sources say some problems and routes, such as the Akuma no Shita boulder and Nakashio Crack at Shiriidashi, get waves at high tide or can only be started at low tide.
• Rockfall. The Izu Peninsula Geopark Kadowakizaki page warns that the cliffs collapse and rocks fall below them. Mitsumine Sangaku-kai (February 2020) wrote that the top of Seaside is breaking up and rockfall is frequent (「上部の崩壊が進んでおり、落石が頻繁にある」). Tourist paths run along the cliff top; wear a helmet.
• Approach footing. The Isaribi approach is a steep descent that is especially slippery after rain; Hashidate has a section where you descend with a rope, which conflicts with Mountain Project's no-fixed-ropes rule, so go by what you find on site (Isaribi, Hashidate).

In an emergency, call 119 for ambulance and fire or 110 for police (City of Yokohama: Calling emergency services). For a fall into the sea or any accident at sea, call the Japan Coast Guard on 118 (Japan Coast Guard: 118) and say when, where and what happened (「いつ・どこで・何があった」). The Jogasaki coast is long, so give the sector name (Seaside, Funamushi Rock, Family Crack) and the nearest car park rather than just "Jogasaki".

Also check with your insurer that trad climbing, search and rescue, medical treatment and repatriation are covered. A generic travel policy name is not enough; in Japan mountain rescue costs are in principle borne by the party rescued, subject to your policy and local rules.

Routes by level

The databases disagree a lot. ROCKTOPO lists 494 routes (128 boulders, 105 sport, 255 crack, 6 multi-pitch), CLIMBING-net about 500, theCrag 180 routes with 274 logged ascents, and Mountain Project 44. ROCKTOPO covers the most sectors; theCrag has empty pages for some (Funamushi Rock, Bamboo Rock, Kadowakizaki), and Mountain Project only covers the easier and mid-grade lines in the popular sectors.

The main sectors at a glance (all checked 2026-10-24). ROCKTOPO's types and E/M/H come from the sector list on its Jogasaki page; E/M/H is ROCKTOPO's own easy/medium/hard label, and the page does not define the cut-offs. theCrag's figures come from each sector page:

Sector	theCrag routes / ascents	ROCKTOPO types	ROCKTOPO E/M/H	Character
Seaside Sunset	40 / 109	33 sport, 7 crack, 1 multi	5 / 18 / 18	The main sport wall; turn left after the rappel; sun all day
Seaside Sunrise	23 / 12	11 sport, 18 crack	6 / 15 / 8	Steep cracks mixed with sport; same rappel, turn right
Family Crack	20 / 57	3 sport, 16 crack	14 / 5 / 0	Below the Hashidate suspension bridge; easy to mid-grade cracks
Funamushi Rock	0 (empty page)	3 sport, 11 crack	12 / 1 / 1	ROCKTOPO: good for crack beginners (「クラック初心者には良いエリア」)
Akane-no-hama	13 / 33	1 sport, 23 crack	13 / 7 / 4	All trad; regulars rappel in from anchors on top
Ukiyamabashi	16 / 5	15 crack	1 / 6 / 8	theCrag: "high concentration of quality climbs"; gear only
Astrodome	17 / 2	8 sport, 9 crack	0 / 4 / 13	Hard routes; ROCKTOPO data only from a 2020 snapshot
Isaribi Rock	5 / 18	3 sport, 9 crack	5 / 6 / 1	Route crag, not the Isaribi boulder area; Kojitsu Sanso 2015: 30 min on foot from Futo station
Nichirenzaki south face	4 / 12	4 crack	1 / 3 / 0	ROCKTOPO: 5.10 to 11a, just right for intermediates
Shiriidashi	8 / 7	1 sport, 8 crack	8 / 1 / 0	Quiet; MuRa (February 2025) found a fixed rope on the last 4 m
Otatsu-iso	11 / 2	1 boulder, 3 sport, 8 crack	3 / 7 / 2	Many top-rope lines
Kadowaki south shore	not listed	16 sport, 9 crack	7 / 16 / 2	Park at the Kadowaki car park

Mountain Project's Jogasaki page says "In the last few years many routes are now TR only," but none of the nine route pages opened for this guide is marked top-rope only. ROCKTOPO marks four Seaside routes as not climbable (「登攀不可」): Dynamite Bonbon, Roller Coaster, Okosama Lunch and Cadillac Ranch. Check on site and in the guidebook.

YDS and V-grade conversions follow the Mountain Project international grade comparison chart and are approximate; "approx." marks grades the sources give without a/b/c (such as 4 or 5+). The original grade is the one that counts.

These tables include routes that at least one database lists and that have stars, ascent counts or first-hand comments; they are not every route at Jogasaki. Lines that appear only in videos or blogs and in none of the three databases (MARS, for example) are left out.

All three databases already use YDS, so the grade column keeps the original grade and the YDS column repeats it rather than back-converting to French grades. Length and stars come from theCrag; ascent counts are ROCKTOPO's "climbed" counts (登った人数), checked 2026-10-24. "—" means the page gives no value, and "(MP)" is Mountain Project's length in feet converted to metres. Where sources disagree on grade, the notes say so.

Videos are attached to the routes in the tables; click a thumbnail to open that route's list. Watch for version differences: two Father Crack videos are labelled 5.10c; ALPINE CLUB TOKYO's Purple Shadow video names a different wall in its title and its description; the Captain Hook video is a flash by a 160 cm climber; and each of mikko KURATA's two long day compilations is attached to several routes, with start times for each in the description. Grades and route names in video titles describe only that video's version; choose routes from the source columns in the tables.

Beginner: up to 6a (YDS 5.10a and below)

This band is almost all crack. Of ROCKTOPO's 105 sport routes, only 4 are below 5.10a. The easy cracks are concentrated in three sectors: Funamushi Rock (walkable from Futo station, 5 min from the car park), Family Crack (below the suspension bridge) and Akane-no-hama. CLIMBING-net calls Jogasaki fine for beginners and intermediates (「初心者・中級者OK」), assuming you can place your own gear or are climbing with someone who can.

Funamushi Rock and Family Crack are where clubs practise crack climbing, so ropes go up early at weekends. The hardest-feeling routes in this band are Flash Dance and Mumei Roof Crack. On a first visit, start on Purple Shadow (nicecats: the hand jams lock well, 「ハンドジャムがよく効いて気持ちのいい」) or Baby Crack (Dakekanba Club's pick for a first lead).

Intermediate: 6a+ to 6c+ (YDS 5.10b–5.11c)

There are two styles in this band. Seaside Sunset is bolted sport: theCrag has 40 routes and 109 ascents there, about 40% of all Jogasaki ascents. Family Crack, Nichirenzaki south face, Ukiyamabashi and Isaribi offer 5.10 cracks. Mountain Project's classics list has only two routes, both in this band: Peter Pan (sport) and Early Times (trad).

Several reports call the Seaside 5.10s stiff. tkd0831 concluded that "the 5.10s were hard" (「5.10は辛めだった」) and felt Peter Pan, Captain Hook and Chesha Neko half a grade to a full grade harder. The databases also differ by a grade on some routes (Tinker Bell, Super Serious Jam). On a first visit, assume every route feels half a grade harder than its number and warm up on routes with many ascents (Peter Pan, Captain Hook and Tight Boy each have more than 20 on ROCKTOPO).

Advanced: 7a to 7c+ (YDS 5.11d–5.13a)

This band is almost entirely at Seaside, Ukiyamabashi and Astrodome. Seaside Sunset has long sport routes of around 25 m; Ukiyamabashi has steep roof cracks. The Astrodome 5.12 cracks (Marionette, Merry-go-round, Blizzard) only have theCrag star ratings, and ROCKTOPO only had a 2020 snapshot, so they are left out of the table.

At Seaside, the holds on hard routes were already too slick (「ぬめりすぎて」) for one climber in January, so mornings and overcast days are better. Ukiyamabashi is gear only, and theCrag says "There is no real top rope potential," so you cannot top-rope it first.

Expert: 8a and up (YDS 5.13b and up)

theCrag lists only six routes here, four at Astrodome and two at Seaside, with only a handful of ascents logged on ROCKTOPO or in blogs.

Route	Grade	YDS	Length / pitches	Sector	Notes
Splash スプラッシュ	5.13c	5.13c	—	Seaside Sunset	Sport, 7 bolts; theCrag ★★★, ROCKTOPO 2. Sugiyann (February 2026): waves reach the belay (「ビレイ点は波が来ていて」), with a scary runout above
Clancher クランチャー	5.13c	5.13c	—	Seaside Sunrise	theCrag lists it as trad and notes "its start and finish are not clear"
Samurai サムライ	5.13b	5.13b	—	Astrodome	Sport; theCrag ★★
Flame Merry-go-round 炎のメリーゴーラウンド	5.13c	5.13c	—	Astrodome	Crack; theCrag ★★★
Venue	5.13d	5.13d	—	Astrodome	Sport; theCrag, no stars
Pure Breath ピュアブレス	5.14b	5.14b	—	Astrodome	Sport; theCrag ★★, grade given as "5.14b?"

Route data in this band comes mainly from theCrag, and ROCKTOPO's Astrodome page stops in 2020. A video uploaded in December 2024, "【城ヶ崎 Jogasaki Coast 】MARS 5.13d", describes a trad line first climbed by Kazumasa Yoshida in 1989 but does not say which sector it is in.

Watch the MARS 5.13d video

MARS 5.13d (sector not given) · the description calls it a trad line first climbed by Kazumasa Yoshida in 1989 · ユウキミヤシタ

• 15:22MARS 5.13d (sector not given)the description calls it a trad line first climbed by Kazumasa Yoshida in 1989 · ユウキミヤシタ

Bouldering

The Jogasaki Boulder Guide covers 7 areas, 79 boulders and 170 problems (checked 2026-10-24). It has no star ratings, only a popularity ranking based on page views. Grades stay in the Japanese kyu/dan system and are not converted. According to the Jogasaki Boulder Guide, there are 30 problems at 初段, 23 at 1級, 14 at 二段 and 5 at 三段 or harder; the easiest is Orange-mura (8級) at Hashidate.

The site notes that Nichirenzaki and Hashidate have many easy problems. Problems change after typhoons: Stone Love (February 2024) reported that the main slab at Kosaitsuna had shattered (「粉々に砕け散りました」), probably in the October 2019 typhoon.

Route records online

Beyond the guidebook and databases, Japanese climbers' blogs and club reports add a body of first-hand records. They are personal accounts, not independent checks on each other; they add beta, felt grades, crowds and conditions, and the grades in the tables above still stand. The ones below are from 2019–2026 and name specific routes.

Route	Record you can read	What that record adds
Peter Pan ピーターパン, Captain Hook 海賊フック, Tight Boy タイトボーイ, Chesha Neko チェシャネコ	tkd0831's 2025 felt-grade notes	Felt grades route by route: Peter Pan and Captain Hook about 5.10c, Tight Boy and Chesha Neko about 5.11a, concluding that "the 5.10s were hard" (「5.10は辛めだった」); Cinderella Boy is "hard 8a / soft 13b"
Kaze ni Fukarete 風に吹かれて	nicecats's 2023 record	Three grades depending on the line: 5.10c, 5.11a or 5.11b; on a cold weekday after snow, the author's party had the sector to itself
Seaside rappel and climb out	H.Tohsaki's 2023 record, kubo's 2025 record, Sugiyann's 2026 record	10–15 minutes from the Yawatano car park, then over a fence and rappel; on the way out, move a self-belay up the bolts and metal staples, and the group's mentor recommends approach shoes; the self-belay tree at the rappel point is dead and rotten; Sugiyann: without rappel skills you cannot even reach the crag
Loose Girl ルーズガール	kubo's 2025 record	The opening crack has no bolts, so bring cams; a loose hold on the left at the exit, sometimes marked with an "×"
Iron Head アイロンヘッド, Cinderella Boy シンデレラボーイ, Talampion タランピオン	genter's 2026 record	The Seaside entrance was looser than the year before (「去年よりザレていて」); Talampion links Tarantula into Scorpion, with a seven-move crux low down protected by micro cams; Cinderella Boy looks brutal to link (「繋げるのは超キツそう」)
Toranoana 虎の穴, Pumping Iron I パンピングアイアンⅠ	Kii Sampo's 2025 record	Sent after 13 tries over 3 days; Seaside before the coldest week got little north wind (「あまり北風も入らない」); some say Pumping Iron I is closer to 5.12b
Colossus コロッサス	Shuho Toko-kai's 2025 record	49 tries over 18 days from 2023 to 2025; the lower part is R-rated trad around 5.11b, and someone reportedly needed a helicopter after a ground fall; too slick by early April (「ヌメヌメで勝負にならなかった」)
White Shark ホワイトシャーク	Mitsumine Sangaku-kai's 2020 club report	Called one of the easier routes here (「簡単な部類」); five parties even on a weekday, so rappel quickly and don't dawdle on the exit (「モタモタしていると罵声が飛ぶ」); frequent rockfall from the top
Splash スプラッシュ	Sugiyann's 2026 record	Waves reach the belay (「ビレイ点は波が来ていて」), with a runout above
Jun 純, Light Rain ライト・レイン	Mumei Sanjuku's 2026 record	Funamushi Rock was so busy they only got on Jun; at Akane-no-hama regulars rigged ropes from the top, and the 5.7 they wanted was taken in moments
Purple Shadow パープルシャドウ, Nessie ネッシー, Flash Dance フラッシュダンス	nicecats's 2025 record	In a once-in-a-decade cold wave the rock was not that cold (「岩はそれほど冷たくなく」); Purple Shadow looks nothing like a 5.8; Flash Dance's thin-hands start is hard to protect
Baby Crack ベイビークラック	Dakekanba Club's 2025 record	Recommended as a first lead and used for cam fall practice; "even when you think it's set, it slips — that's Jogasaki" (「決まったと思っても滑るのが城ヶ崎」)
Mumei Roof Crack 無名ルーフクラック	Miroku Yama-no-kai's 2024 record	Veterans pull on the jug above the roof instead of the crack; left Futo station at 9:10 and reached the rock at 9:30
Hattari Crack はったりクラック (Shiriidashi)	MuRa's 2025 record	Clipped all three bolts because of corrosion; the tree by the anchor wobbles; Nakashio Crack can only be started at low tide; 30 minutes from the Igaigane car park, with a fixed rope on the last 4 m (at odds with the MP rule)
Denko Crack 電光クラック (Abunane)	MuRa's 2025 record	5.7; needs micro cams plus #5/#6, but is almost face climbing (「ほぼフェイス登り」)
Trouble Chance トラベルチャンス	Musaniki's 2025 record	Top-roped it to check placements before leading; mostly face climbing with one jam
Tako タコ	Mickipedia's 2019 record	First climbed by Seiji Horichi in 1984 as Japan's first 5.12 crack; the author felt 5.12b+, harder than Marionette and Scorpion
Deisui 泥酔	syathi's 2024 record	Felt like an easy 2級 (「易しめ2級くらい」); only the last few spaces were left at the Igaigane car park at 9:30
Satyagraha サティアグラハ	kameclimb's 2026 record	29 moves to the lip, with the crux where it joins Harou: if you can't warm up on Harou you're not ready for it
Kosaitsuna boulders	Stone Love's 2024 record	The main slab shattered (「粉々に砕け散りました」), probably in the October 2019 typhoon

Where to look things up

• ROCKTOPO Jogasaki: in Japanese; routes, grades, ascent counts and popular routes for each sector, car park sizes and locations, and rappel points. Offline data needs a login. In October 2026 direct access often returned 403, and some sectors could only be read through Wayback snapshots.
• CLIMBING-net Jogasaki: in Japanese; Yama-kei's crag overview, development history and parking rules by sector.
• Jogasaki Boulder Guide: in Japanese; bouldering topos, walking times from stations, parking and approach photos, and news such as broken holds.
• theCrag: in English; route length, bolt counts, stars and logged ascents for each sector.
• Mountain Project: in English; a summary of the rules, easy and mid-grade routes in the popular sectors, and a classics list.
• JFA access-issue list and the JFA Jogasaki page: in Japanese; access status, the post-accident agreement and new notices.
• JMA tide table for Ito: the station is in Futo; check high and low tide times before you go.
• Ito Tourism Association: Jogasaki coast: in Japanese; Kadowaki car park size and fees, and transport.
• Guidebooks: Grades and route counts here come mainly from online databases; the guidebook is the authority.
  • Free Climbing Nihon 100 Iwaba 3: Izu & Koshin (enlarged revised new edition) (ed. Makoto Kitayama, Yama-kei Publishers, 2012-04-20, 208 pp, Japanese): includes "51 East Izu Jogasaki", and the publisher calls Jogasaki Japan's representative sea cliff (「日本を代表するシークリフ・城ヶ崎」). An ebook edition came out in 2016. There has been no new print edition since 2012.
  • Nihon Bouldering Area, vol. 2 (ed. Makoto Kitayama, Yama-kei Publishers, 2014-10-17, Japanese): a bouldering selection; the publisher says it newly adds the Jogasaki boulders (「新たに城ヶ崎のボルダーを追加」).
  • No dedicated printed Jogasaki topo turned up. For bouldering, the Jogasaki Boulder Guide website is the most current.

Changelog

• 2026-10-24 (second revision): Switched to the crag-guide template (Insubong): route videos now sit in a video column in each grade table (51 entries, 40 videos), the standalone "Videos" section is gone, and MARS is in a collapsible block; "What people who have climbed here say" became the "Route records online" table; "Seaside hazards" moved into the rules section; White Christmas was added to the intermediate table.
• 2026-10-24: Reworked to follow the Joyama guide. "Notable sectors and routes" became "Routes by level", with a table of the main sectors, four route tables for beginner, intermediate, advanced and expert (YDS column, length, stars, ascent counts) and a bouldering table. Added "What people who have climbed here say" and "Videos". "Getting there" now opens with a summary table, "Parking by sector" became "Parking", and the Seaside walking time was added. The rules section adds Ito City's 2022 position, recent JFA notices, emergency numbers and insurance; the hazards section adds the tide table, the climb out and rockfall; "When to go" adds trip-report conditions; "Where to look things up" adds guidebooks. Route data checked 2026-10-24.

References

• ROCKTOPO: Jogasaki (in Japanese, checked 2026-10-12 and 2026-10-24)
• ROCKTOPO: Seaside Sunrise Area (in Japanese)
• ROCKTOPO: Family Crack (in Japanese)
• ROCKTOPO: Ukiyamabashi (in Japanese)
• ROCKTOPO: Nichirenzaki south face (in Japanese)
• ROCKTOPO: Seaside Sunset Area (Wayback snapshot, 2026-05-15) (in Japanese)
• ROCKTOPO: Funamushi Rock (Wayback snapshot, 2026-05-19) (in Japanese)
• ROCKTOPO: Akane-no-hama (Wayback snapshot, 2026-04-10) (in Japanese)
• ROCKTOPO: Kadowaki parking (in Japanese)
• ROCKTOPO: Parking near Izu-Kogen station (in Japanese)
• ROCKTOPO: Igaigane parking (in Japanese)
• ROCKTOPO: Ukiyamabashi parking (in Japanese)
• ROCKTOPO: Yawatano port parking (in Japanese)
• ROCKTOPO: Parking near Renchakuji (in Japanese)
• ROCKTOPO: Parking in front of Isaribi Rock (in Japanese)
• ROCKTOPO: Funamushi Rock parking (in Japanese)
• ROCKTOPO: Izu Umi-no-Mori Smile Campground (in Japanese)
• ROCKTOPO: Akazawa port parking (in Japanese)
• ROCKTOPO: Seaside rappel point (in Japanese)
• CLIMBING-net: Jogasaki (in Japanese, Yama-kei Publishers)
• Jogasaki Boulder Guide (in Japanese)
• Jogasaki Boulder Guide: popularity ranking (in Japanese)
• Jogasaki Boulder Guide: Funamushi Rock (in Japanese)
• Jogasaki Boulder Guide: Isaribi (in Japanese)
• Jogasaki Boulder Guide: Hashidate (in Japanese)
• Jogasaki Boulder Guide: Kosaitsuna (in Japanese)
• Jogasaki Boulder Guide: Nichirenzaki (in Japanese)
• Jogasaki Boulder Guide: Tanakaiso (in Japanese)
• Jogasaki Boulder Guide: Monster Man (in Japanese)
• Jogasaki Boulder Guide: Shiokaze (in Japanese)
• JFA: Access-issue areas across Japan (in Japanese)
• JFA: Jogasaki notice (2022-04-15) (in Japanese)
• JFA: Jogasaki tent camping (2025-03-29) (in Japanese)
• JFA: Jogasaki boulders broken hold (2024-12-09) (in Japanese)
• JFA: Mother Crack notice (2022-03-10) (in Japanese)
• JFA: Shizuoka – Jogasaki area page (in Japanese)
• JFA: Rebolting record (in Japanese)
• theCrag: Jogasaki
• theCrag: Sunset Area
• theCrag: Sunrise Area
• theCrag: Ukiyama Bashi
• theCrag: Akane no Hama
• theCrag: Astrodome
• theCrag: Isaribi Rock
• theCrag: Nichirenzaki Minamimen
• theCrag: Namidachi
• theCrag: Family Crack Area
• theCrag: Otatsu Iso
• theCrag: Shiriidashi
• Mountain Project: Jogasaki
• Mountain Project: Classic Climbs for Jogasaki
• Mountain Project: Family Crack Area
• Mountain Project: Sunrise Area
• Mountain Project: Early Times
• Mountain Project: Peter Pan
• Mountain Project: Hatsumago
• Ito Tourism Association: Jogasaki coast (in Japanese)
• Izu Peninsula Geopark: Kadowakizaki (in Japanese)
• Japan Meteorological Agency: tide table, Ito (in Japanese)
• Japan Coast Guard: 118 (in Japanese)
• City of Yokohama: Calling emergency services
• Yama-kei: Free Climbing Nihon 100 Iwaba 3, Izu & Koshin (in Japanese)
• Yama-kei: Nihon 100 Iwaba 3, ebook (in Japanese)
• Yama-kei: Nihon Bouldering Area, vol. 2 (in Japanese)
• tkd0831: Jogasaki felt-grade notes (2025-01-27) (in Japanese)
• nicecats: Jogasaki Seaside (2023-02-21) (in Japanese)
• nicecats: Jogasaki Funamushi Rock 4 (2025-02-18) (in Japanese)
• H.Tohsaki: First visit to Jogasaki Seaside (2023-03-28) (in Japanese)
• kubo's.blog: Jogasaki Seaside (2025-01-19) (in Japanese)
• Sugiyann: Climbing life at Jogasaki, part 1 (2026-02-12) (in Japanese)
• genter: Jogasaki Ukiyamabashi and Seaside (2026-01/02) (in Japanese)
• Kii Sampo: Toranoana redpoint (2025-01) (in Japanese)
• Shuho Toko-kai: Colossus at Seaside (2025-03-01) (in Japanese)
• Mitsumine Sangaku-kai: Jogasaki Seaside (2020-02) (in Japanese)
• Kojitsu Sanso: Climbing at Jogasaki Seaside (2014-03) (in Japanese)
• Kojitsu Sanso: Isaribi Rock (2015-12) (in Japanese)
• Mumei Sanjuku: Jogasaki crack climbing (2026-02) (in Japanese)
• Dakekanba Club: Jogasaki crack meet (2025-11) (in Japanese)
• Dakekanba Club: Funamushi Rock (2024-03-31) (in Japanese)
• Miroku Yama-no-kai: Crack practice at Jogasaki (2024-12) (in Japanese)
• Omiya Rozan: Jogasaki climbing meet (2025-01) (in Japanese)
• Musaniki: Jogasaki climbing (2025-01-03) (in Japanese)
• MuRa: Shiriidashi crack climbing (2025-02-08) (in Japanese)
• MuRa: Abunane crack climbing (2025-02-16) (in Japanese)
• Mickipedia: Tako at Namidachi (2019-01) (in Japanese)
• syathi: Tanakaiso (2024-03) (in Japanese)
• kameclimb: Satyagraha (2026-01) (in Japanese)
• Stone Love: Kosaitsuna collapse (2024-02-11) (in Japanese)
• YouTube: Mother Crack 5.10c (5Gクライミング)
• YouTube: Father Crack 5.10b (5Gクライミング)
• YouTube: Oni Goroshi 5.7 (5Gクライミング)
• YouTube: Flash Dance 5.10a (5Gクライミング)
• YouTube: Isaribi Crack Right 5.10c (5Gクライミング)
• YouTube: Brother Crack 5.10b (5Gクライミング)
• YouTube: Shinjin Crack 5.10a (5Gクライミング)
• YouTube: Samu Crack 5.9 (5Gクライミング)
• YouTube: Father Crack 5.10c (iwadanoboru)
• YouTube: Family Crack area, 2025-12-19 (mikko KURATA)
• YouTube: Mumei Roof Crack 5.10a (めざせ500イレブン+)
• YouTube: Purple Shadow 5.8 (ALPINE CLUB TOKYO)
• YouTube: Seaside vlog (のぼるきょじん)
• YouTube: Air Dance 5.12a (萩原悟)
• YouTube: Sekido Roof 5.10c–5.11b (ちくごん)
• YouTube: Cinderella Boy 5.13a/b (ちくごん)
• YouTube: Toranoana 5.13a (きい山歩)
• YouTube: MARS 5.13d (ユウキミヤシタ)
• YouTube: Two-day Jogasaki bouldering trip (らんどクライミングR&O)
• YouTube: Satyagraha 四段/V12 (KameClimb)
• Mountain Project: International climbing grade comparison chart