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For a Japan crack-climbing trip through Osaka, Nabari deserves its own place on the itinerary. Columnar rock beside the Shorenji River creates straight, sustained cracks. A route named Nabari Nyumon—“Introduction to Nabari”—still expects you to jam and place protection.
This guide helps you decide whether Nabari suits your team, when to go, how to arrange transport without a car, and how to choose between routes at Byobuiwa, Daiichi Ganpeki and SUNNY SIDE.
What kind of crag
Climbers generally use Nabari for the crack-climbing areas of 香落渓(かおちだに, Kaochidani) in Mie Prefecture. The Mie tourism federation describes Kaochidani as a columnar-rock gorge along the Shorenji River. A sightseeing access point and the entrance to your climbing sector are different destinations.
ROCKTOPO's Nabari route list identifies the rock as welded tuff and has 154 crack entries in its public route list. Trad climbing with cams and other removable protection is the focus: there are hand cracks, wide cracks and demanding finger cracks.
| Sector | Routes to investigate | Planning a first visit |
|---|---|---|
| Byobuiwa/屏風岩 | Crack Baby, Nabari Nyumon, Surf Rider, Pandora | A starting point for comparing cracks across several grade bands. |
| Daiichi Ganpeki/第一岩壁 | これなんですか, サブマリン and other 5.10a routes | Check each start, anchor and descent; routes beginning on different terraces are not one ground-level line. |
| SUNNY SIDE | むらさめ, ジュマンジ, The Progression | Lower-grade cracks and difficult objectives share this sector; choose for your team's ability. |
| Morning Light | Several 5.9–5.11 cracks | Locate it separately from the sectors above using the local topo. |
Sector names and grades above come from ROCKTOPO. They belong to the same Nabari destination and are covered together here. Leading a gym 5.10 does not establish readiness for a Nabari 5.9 crack. For a first visit, climb with a partner or guide who knows Nabari and start on routes where you can place protection with a margin. Avoid treating your sport grade as your crack grade.
When to go
ROCKTOPO lists March–June and September–November as the season. Spring or autumn is a useful starting point for a first trip, followed by a check of temperatures, recent rain and river conditions. Reaching the wall can involve a river crossing as well as a trail.
A sector name does not promise all-day sunshine. A Mitsumine climbing club report from November 2022 describes SUNNY SIDE in shade in the morning, receiving sun around midday. That is an observation from that autumn visit; pack warm layers for belaying and waiting on cold mornings.
The same report describes water conditions that required wading where the topo suggested stepping stones. Assess the water level and current on the day; wearing waders does not make a crossing safe. Change plans if conditions are unsuitable rather than relying on a previous party's crossing method.
Getting there
Public transport
Take Kintetsu to Nabari Station/名張駅. The Sanco west-exit timetable, checked in October 2026, lists bus 21 toward 山粕西 (Yamagasu-nishi) from stop 1 at the west exit. The Soni–Kaochidani route diagram includes 紅葉谷 (Momijidani), 落合 (Ochiai), and 小太郎岩 (Kotaro-iwa) along the gorge.
The official tourism page describes sightseeing access as approximately 30 minutes by bus from Nabari Station to Ochiai. That gets you to a gorge bus stop, not directly to a route start. Identify your sector in the topo before choosing a stop and approach; “Kaochidani” alone is too broad a navigation destination.
Services are infrequent, and some routings change seasonally. Bus 20 to Soni Kogen has an autumn operating period. Use the operator's timetable for both directions, particularly your last return to Nabari Station. With a trad rack and river-crossing equipment, arranging a station pickup or renting a car in advance makes the return easier to plan.
Driving
The Mie tourism federation directs Osaka-side traffic from the Meihan road's Hari IC via Route 165 toward Shorenji Dam; Nagoya-side traffic comes from Ueno IC via Route 368 toward the dam. Once in the gorge, use the parking diagram for the sector you will actually visit.
Parking
Treat parking location and the vehicle marker as one task. Local developer Jamming Gentleman’s access notice includes parking and flag-location images for Byobuiwa, Morning Light, Daiichi Ganpeki / SUNNY SIDE and other areas. Save the relevant diagram, then check signs and available spaces on arrival. An empty roadside space is not permission to park.
Rules before you go
Bring a vehicle marker and a yellow flag, and follow the crossing-equipment arrangement. The local developer's notice, checked in October 2026, sets out three requests agreed with the local fisheries association:
- Hang a towel or similar marker from the car's door mirror so the association can identify a climber's vehicle.
- Put one yellow flag per group at the sector entrance, visible from the opposite bank. A yellow towel or groundsheet may substitute.
- Leave waders, sandals and other crossing equipment near the flag.
The flag identifies the presence of climbers during wildlife-control activities. Use the positions shown in the notice and collect your belongings when leaving.
Distinguish the Nabari crack areas from “香落渓 MC の岩場.” JFA's national access-issues list records access prohibition and landownership problems at the MC area. Sharing the Kaochidani name does not make another area's arrangements applicable there; this guide does not provide an MC-area approach. Follow any current signs and local notices for the sector you intend to visit.
Before leaving the ground, settle the route's protection sizes, anchor and descent. Many length fields in ROCKTOPO are blank: grades and route names do not determine rope length, and another climber's rope arrangement for one route is not a crag-wide specification. Obtain the current topo and confirm with your partner that your ropes cover the planned descent.
For an emergency requiring medical help, call 119. The Japanese Fire and Disaster Management Agency's visitor guide explains providing your location and nearby landmarks. Save “名張・香落渓,” the Japanese sector name, offline maps and a reachable road location beforehand. Ask your insurer about trad climbing, search and rescue, medical treatment and repatriation cover.
Routes by level
YDS and V-grade conversions follow the Mountain Project international grade comparison chart and are approximate; "approx." marks grades the sources give without a/b/c (such as 4 or 5+). The original grade is the one that counts.
Route-video labels follow uploader titles and descriptions. The clip’s grade or version may differ; use the table sources and current signs when choosing a line.
The public ROCKTOPO list supplies the original YDS grades below, with every graded rope route grouped by level. Unspecified lengths stay unspecified. A database entry does not establish access permission; use the restrictions above and the local topo. R, X and aid annotations are retained where provided.
Four additional Mountain Project English-name records are retained with their original labels; their correspondence with Japanese names is unverified, so the number of records is not a count of distinct routes.
ROCKTOPO lists Nabari Nyumon, Surf Rider and Pandora among its popular objectives. The 2021 Kojitsu Sanso report also compares introductory crack objectives; its experience is useful without making any one route universally easy.
Beginner: up to 6a (YDS 5.10a and below)
Start by comparing 屏風岩, 第一岩壁, SUNNY SIDE. Identify each route’s protection, anchor and descent in the topo before committing.
All graded routes in this band(46)
| Route | Grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Sector | Notes | Videos |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 「名張入門」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO · Report: 好日山荘2021 — The author did not lead after finding the jamming awkward; the name is not a beginner qualification. | ![]() 2025 uploader-labelled route clip; identity follows title/description, grades follow the table. · Carving My Way - クライミング・沢登り&BCスキー |
| 「crack baby」 | 5.7 | 5.7 | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO · Report: 好日山荘2021 — Compares previous top-roping with the author’s lead. | ![]() 2024 uploader-labelled route clip; identity follows title/description, grades follow the table. · 6DME |
| 「マシュマロマン」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | ![]() 2025 uploader-labelled route clip; identity follows title/description, grades follow the table. · なぽチャンネル |
| 「直登」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | 第一岩壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「ミニラ」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「これなんですか」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | 第一岩壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「だんだん」 | 5.8 | 5.8 | Not listed | SUNNY SIDE | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「ゴールデンボンバー」 | 5.8 | 5.8 | Not listed | 第一岩壁 奥壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「むらさめ」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | Not listed | SUNNY SIDE | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「ブロードバンド」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | ![]() 2026 uploader-labelled route clip; identity follows title/description, grades follow the table. · 50で山を始めた人の動画 |
| 「三ババ」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「サキサカ」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | 第一岩壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | ![]() 2019 uploader-labelled route clip; identity follows title/description, grades follow the table. · Nissy Chin |
| 「サブマリン」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | 第一岩壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「ピーナッツ」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「風子」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | ホタルクラック | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Pumpkins」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「ブロック崩し」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「四ババ」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「花」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | 第一岩壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「GoldenJam」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | Not listed | 第一岩壁 奥壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「まちがいさがし」 | 5.8 | 5.8 | Not listed | 第一岩壁 奥壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「NEW WAVE」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | Not listed | SUNNY SIDE | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「くのいち」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | Not listed | SUNNY SIDE | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「ごきげんいかが」 | 5.8 | 5.8 | Not listed | SUNNY SIDE | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「ごちそうさま」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | Not listed | SUNNY SIDE | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「8823」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | SUNNY SIDE | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「yellow shock」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | 17 m | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「ブーメラン」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | 17 m | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「BLUE」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | 第一岩壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Campagne」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | Morning Light | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Get Wild」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | Not listed | Morning Light | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Mackerel」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | Not listed | Morning Light | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「World Wide Web」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | Not listed | Morning Light | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「グーニーズ」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | Not listed | Morning Light | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「WINTER DIVING」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | SUNNY SIDE | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Bstop」 | 5.8 | 5.8 | Not listed | 中森ランド | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Caterpie」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | 中森ランド | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「EGcrack」 | 5.8 | 5.8 | Not listed | 中森ランド | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Rockup」 | 5.8 | 5.8 | Not listed | 中森ランド | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「カワハギ」 | 5.8 | 5.8 | Not listed | 中森ランド | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「サンドカーペット」 | 5.7 | 5.7 | Not listed | 中森ランド | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「刺股」 | 5.8 | 5.8 | Not listed | 中森ランド | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「バルス」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「密林」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「WING」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | Not listed | 第一岩壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「ミチル」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | 第一岩壁 奥壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
Intermediate: 6a+ to 6c+ (YDS 5.10b–5.11c)
Start by comparing 屏風岩, SUNNY SIDE, 第一岩壁. Identify each route’s protection, anchor and descent in the topo before committing.
All graded routes in this band(94)
| Route | Grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Sector | Notes | Videos |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 「パンドラ」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO · Mountain Project · Report: Masa2020 — Distinguishes the original from its extension. | — |
| 「Surf Rider」 | 5.10d | 5.10d | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO · Report: 三峰山岳会2022 — The report uses 5.10c versus ROCKTOPO’s 5.10d; the lower grade is not a guarantee. | ![]() 2020 uploader-labelled route clip; identity follows title/description, grades follow the table. · SongJu |
| 「ジュマンジ」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | SUNNY SIDE | Sources: ROCKTOPO · Report: 三峰山岳会2022 — The report uses 5.10a versus ROCKTOPO’s 5.10b; the table retains the database grade. | ![]() 2021 uploader-labelled route clip; identity follows title/description, grades follow the table. · ガチむりん |
| 「スネークマン」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | 第一岩壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「ディナーアウト」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | SUNNY SIDE | Sources: ROCKTOPO | ![]() 2014 uploader-labelled route clip; identity follows title/description, grades follow the table. · Kohei0082 |
| 「モスラパワー」 | 5.11c | 5.11c | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | ![]() 2011 uploader-labelled route clip; identity follows title/description, grades follow the table. · OtsuKatsuo |
| 「ゴジラパワー」 | 5.11b | 5.11b | 38 m (trip report) | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO · Report: 今日からきみは2024 — The report describes 38 m, from thin to wide cracks; not a descent-rope specification. | ![]() 2025 uploader-labelled route clip; identity follows title/description, grades follow the table. · 今日からきみは‼-にわかアルピニスト |
| 「ユビキタス」 | 5.11b | 5.11b | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「ムササビ君の休暇村」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | 第一岩壁 奥壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「CAT WALK」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | SUNNY SIDE | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「じょっぴん」 | 5.11b | 5.11b | Not listed | SUNNY SIDE | Sources: ROCKTOPO · Mountain Project | — |
| 「チビゴジラ」 | 5.10d | 5.10d | Not listed | SUNNY SIDE | Sources: ROCKTOPO | ![]() 2014 uploader-labelled route clip; identity follows title/description, grades follow the table. · Kohei0082 |
| 「ホタルクラック」 | 5.11b | 5.11b | Not listed | ホタルクラック | Sources: ROCKTOPO | ![]() 2025 uploader-labelled route clip; identity follows title/description, grades follow the table. · とりちゃん 「四季を通した山あそび」 |
| 「なにわすじ」 | 5.11c | 5.11c | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「文句があるか」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「竜田川」 | 5.10d | 5.10d | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「でかいつらダイレクト」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | 第一岩壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「ゴールドフィンガー」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | 第一岩壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「苔男ダイレクト」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | 第一岩壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | ![]() 2014 uploader-labelled route clip; identity follows title/description, grades follow the table. · Kohei0082 |
| 「Nameless crack」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | SUNNY SIDE | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「もいち」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | SUNNY SIDE | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「それがどうした」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「チプルソ」 | 5.10d | 5.10d | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「パンドラ・エクステンション」 | 5.11c | 5.11c | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO · Report: かっしー2023 — The report labels it 5.11c R; protection on the extension is separate from move difficulty. | — |
| 「コンドーサン」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | 第一岩壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「プルトニウム」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | 第一岩壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「PEKO」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO · Mountain Project | — |
| 「アマゾネス」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「ジャングルジム」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「RAZOR CRACK」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | SUNNY SIDE | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Short Hope」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | SUNNY SIDE | Sources: ROCKTOPO · Mountain Project | — |
| 「ももない」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | SUNNY SIDE | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「ポイズン」 | 5.11b | 5.11b | Not listed | ホタルクラック | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「アマデウス」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「パンピング・アイアン」 | 5.11b | 5.11b | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「ブリッジ」 | 5.11c | 5.11c | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「岩おこし」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | 16 m | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「おじょうず」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | 第一岩壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「ヤンコマリタイ」 | 5.10d | 5.10d | Not listed | 第一岩壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「RS」 | 5.11c | 5.11c | Not listed | 第一岩壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「ポルコロッソ」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | 第一岩壁 奥壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「蔦屋」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | 第一岩壁 奥壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Amber Jack」 | 5.11b | 5.11b | Not listed | Morning Light | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Android」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | Morning Light | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Bonito」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | Morning Light | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Catfish」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | Morning Light | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Free Stone」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | Morning Light | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Galaxy」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | Morning Light | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Good Morning」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | Morning Light | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Her Rock」 | 5.11b | 5.11b | Not listed | Morning Light | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Hot Summer」 | 5.11b | 5.11b | Not listed | Morning Light | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Lemon」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | Morning Light | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Morning Glory」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | Morning Light | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Paprika」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | Morning Light | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Rabiata」 | 5.11b | 5.11b | Not listed | Morning Light | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Rainbow」 | 5.10d | 5.10d | Not listed | Morning Light | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Rockfish」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | Morning Light | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Snapper」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | Morning Light | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「TOTORO」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | Morning Light | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Wide Show」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | Morning Light | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「シンディ・スローパー」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | Morning Light | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Fingers through Fists」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | SUNNY SIDE | Sources: Mountain Project — MP English label only; match it to the local topo before selecting a line. | — |
| 「Short Hope Direct」 | 5.11c | 5.11c | Not listed | SUNNY SIDE | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Wide」 | 5.10b PG13 | 5.10b PG13 | Not listed | SUNNY SIDE | Sources: Mountain Project — MP English label only; match it to the local topo before selecting a line. | — |
| 「ひぐらし」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | SUNNY SIDE | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「ももない ダイレクト」 | 5.11c | 5.11c | Not listed | SUNNY SIDE | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「ツインターボ」 | 5.10d | 5.10d | Not listed | SUNNY SIDE | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「未知への挿入」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | SUNNY SIDE | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「海底人」 | 5.10d | 5.10d | Not listed | SUNNY SIDE | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「零戦」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | SUNNY SIDE | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「霊婆」 | 5.10d | 5.10d | Not listed | SUNNY SIDE | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「鬼面組」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | SUNNY SIDE | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「スポットライト」 | 5.11b | 5.11b | Not listed | ホタルクラック | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Stump」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | 中森ランド | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Chiburso」 | 5.10d | 5.10d | 12 m | 屏風岩 | Sources: Mountain Project — MP English label only; match it to the local topo before selecting a line. | — |
| 「ジェラシー」 | 5.11c | 5.11c | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「男の道」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「藤娘」 | 5.11c | 5.11c | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「蟻の戸渡り」 | 5.11b | 5.11b | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「FOX CRY」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | 第一岩壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「エスプリ」 | 5.11b | 5.11b | Not listed | 第一岩壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「サンクトプルトニウム」 | 5.11b | 5.11b | Not listed | 第一岩壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | ![]() 2025 uploader-labelled route clip; identity follows title/description, grades follow the table. · 今日からきみは‼-にわかアルピニスト |
| 「ソードフィッシュ」 | 5.11b | 5.11b | Not listed | 第一岩壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「高田屋」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | 第一岩壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「3時」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | 第一岩壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Singing Away」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | 第一岩壁 奥壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Sleeping Beauty」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | 第一岩壁 奥壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「アビッシュ」 | 5.11c | 5.11c | Not listed | 第一岩壁 奥壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「アミナダブ」 | 5.11b | 5.11b | Not listed | 第一岩壁 奥壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「チルチル」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | 第一岩壁 奥壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「ラストチャンス」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | 第一岩壁 奥壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「大魔神の逆襲」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | 第一岩壁 奥壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「子ブタルート」 | 5.10d | 5.10d | Not listed | 第一岩壁 奥壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「紫電」 | 5.11b | 5.11b | Not listed | 第一岩壁 奥壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
Advanced: 7a to 7c+ (YDS 5.11d–5.13a)
Start by comparing 屏風岩, SUNNY SIDE, Morning Light. Identify each route’s protection, anchor and descent in the topo before committing.
All graded routes in this band(17)
| Route | Grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Sector | Notes | Videos |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 「いかさま師」 | 5.12b | 5.12b | 40 m (trip report) | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO · Report: Masa2021 — The report gives 40 m and a sustained project account; not a current hardware guarantee. | ![]() 2024 uploader-labelled route clip; identity follows title/description, grades follow the table. · Mai Tsuji |
| 「The Progression」 | 5.13a | 5.13a | Not listed | SUNNY SIDE | Sources: ROCKTOPO | ![]() 2024 uploader-labelled route clip; identity follows title/description, grades follow the table. · 今日からきみは‼-にわかアルピニスト |
| 「L-Craftman」 | 5.12a | 5.12a | 12 m | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「ぴよりん」 | 5.11d | 5.11d | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | ![]() 2025 uploader-labelled route clip; identity follows title/description, grades follow the table. · 今日からきみは‼-にわかアルピニスト |
| 「ウルトラヘヴン」 | 5.12a | 5.12a | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「キジムナー」 | 5.11d | 5.11d | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Android Extension」 | 5.11d | 5.11d | Not listed | Morning Light | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Berket Corner」 | 5.12a | 5.12a | Not listed | Morning Light | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Make Or Take」 | 5.11d | 5.11d | Not listed | ホタルクラック | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「風来」 | 5.11d | 5.11d | Not listed | 中森ランド | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「Gambler」 | 5.12b | 5.12b | 39 m | 屏風岩 | Sources: Mountain Project — MP English label only; match it to the local topo before selecting a line. | — |
| 「ガメラパワー」 | 5.12c | 5.12c | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「グリーンゴブリン」 | 5.11d | 5.11d | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「ブースカ」 | 5.12b | 5.12b | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「木こり」 | 5.12a/b | 5.12a/b | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | ![]() 2020 uploader-labelled route clip; identity follows title/description, grades follow the table. · Kohei0082 |
| 「椿姫」 | 5.12b | 5.12b | Not listed | 屏風岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
| 「ザ・ナバリ」 | 5.11d | 5.11d | Not listed | 第一岩壁 | Sources: ROCKTOPO | — |
Expert: 8a and up (YDS 5.13b and up)
Start by comparing SUNNY SIDE. Identify each route’s protection, anchor and descent in the topo before committing.
All graded routes in this band(1)
| Route | Grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Sector | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 「むらまさ」 | 5.13b | 5.13b | Not listed | SUNNY SIDE | Sources: ROCKTOPO |
Lengths quoted from trip reports identify that report’s route version; they are not rope specifications. Grade ranges crossing a boundary are placed in the harder band, retaining the original range.
Where to look things up
- Local rules: Jamming Gentleman’s access notice has vehicle, flag and parking diagrams. Reopen it before a trip and confirm arrangements with someone familiar with Nabari.
- Transport: Sanco's Nabari west-exit timetable and Momijidani stop cover departures and the return from the gorge. Select the weekday or holiday schedule for your date.
- Route database: ROCKTOPO Nabari and its route list provide sectors and original grades. Empty fields are not equipment guidance.
- Guidebooks: Grades and route counts here come mainly from online databases; the guidebook is the authority.
- Local Nabari / Kaochidani topo access information: made and shared by local developer Jamming Gentleman, whose index was published in August 2025. Japanese; the Nabari topo is shared through the Facebook group “なばら~.” It is a local digital topo without a separately named publisher or fixed edition in the index. Request it through the author's channel and do not redistribute group files. The public index itself is not the complete topo.

















